I haven’t been blogging much over the last week or so cause Julianne and I were packing up my apartment and cleaning it, and taking taxis with the stuff I want to take with me to China, and other stuff we still had to sort through at her apartment . . . and so on and so forth.
We’re in the last stretch and the finish line is looming in terms of finally finishing up dealing with my pack rat issues. UPDATE: This is NOT normally how the apartment looks! We’re packing . . . and it’s nutbar!
Looking at all the stuff I’ve accumulated I’d have to say that I truly made Korea my home after arriving here back in March of 2005. Anyone who tries to say all native teachers just come to Korea to take take take needs to take a look at my 3,000,000won teaching library of ESL/EFL books, and all the other things I’ve spent my income on in Korea and shut their ‘cake hole’ as we used to yell at campers when I was a summer camp counselor during high school, lol.
I had been thinking about selling some of my books but I decided to ship them to China after learning that ESL/EFL books are really hard to get over there, and VERY expensive. I may sell some once I’m in China, but Julianne and I are hoping that we’ll like our new jobs and the culture enough to stay for at least two years, maybe three, so keeping these books a little longer is in line with our job plans.
After looking at shipping prices at EMS and FEDEX, I found out that the post office will ship 20kg boxes (it’s less if it’s lighter in weight) for 40,000won each surface mail (by boat). Julianne and I have sent seven boxes so far with books and things like winter clothes that we won’t need till later this fall (apparently the city we’ll be in is colder than native speakers expect).
We also took two full COSTCO bags of novels and what not to What the Book in Itaewon to sell. The original value that I paid was something like 500,000won for the pile of books I was offloading, and all I got was 150,000won in store credit (which is ONLY good for used books!), or 75,000 cash . . . yikes! I took the in-store credit, and Julianne and I grabbed some literature titles (I got a nice volume of 18th century poetry) that we’ll take with us to China to read. I know that used bookstores always give less than the seller wants, but damn . . . oh well, live and learn, eh?
While Julianne and I were in What the Book? two readers of my blog said hi to me. I’m always surprised when I’m recognized because of my blog, lol. I was actually a little ‘bashful’ about it, and laughed at myself later. We chatted for a bit, and then they went off to look at books, and Julianne and I paid for our books and left.
Later, though, we ran into the same two people at a Greek restaurant–what are the odds? Lol . . . of all the restaurants we could have chosen we chose the same one as them, wow.
After eating, Julianne went to the New Balance store to get new running shoes. I’ve read too many stories now on Chinese expat blogs about scams and rip-offs to want to go shopping for anything in China till I’ve been there for a few months and have some sense of how to avoid being punk’d. Plus, imports are more expensive in China, and it’s likely we’re getting better prices on stuff in Korea.
Alright, I’ve pretty much satisfied my urge to blog and updated nearly everything that’s been going on lately. One last story, though, about the as#ho#e taxi driver we had to deal with a couple nights ago . . .
Julianne and I were moving two suitcases, and two large bags of stuff, from my apartment to hers a couple nights ago. It was raining, and we had a hard time getting a taxi. Finally, a taxi pulls over and I open the door and begin lifting an insanely heavy suitcase full of books we hadn’t had a chance yet to sort what we’d be shipping and what we wanted to sell. I get all our stuff in the taxi, and we pull away after telling him where we want to go.
During the entire time I’m putting our stuff into the taxi (at least a minute and a half) the driver says NOTHING. But about a minute after we pull out into traffic he says in perfectly fluent English, “This is not a cargo taxi. You should have called 120 (I think) to book a cargo van.” His tone was very hostile and rude, and I could tell he was pretty peeved off at us.
Now why this yokel didn’t tell me to stop putting our stuff into his taxi and to take another taxi or to call 120 . . . I don’t know. I mean, based on the ajusshi-does-whatever-he-wants-code he could have done this and driven away.
But he didn’t do that.
Instead of getting out and helping me put our stuff into the car (it was really REALLY heavy) he just sat on his ass and watched, and said NOTHING.
Nice.
Now I know I shouldn’t generalize comments about groups of people, but in Korea there is a sub-group of ajusshi that just crawl under my skin like toxic maggots every time I have any kind of interaction with them–which is far more often than I wish.
There are other sub-groups, or types if you like, of ajusshi who are awesome human beings and share behavior patterns and personality traits that rock. Julianne and I love these guys when we interact with them during taxi rides or wherever we happen to be in Korea. They make us laugh, and we always leave these interactions feeling good about Korea, the culture, and its people.
But the scumbag sub-group of ajusshi . . . they, unfortunately, have left such a bad taste in my memories of Korea that I will forever always have this nasty taint in how I see Korea and its culture and people.
I will not be able to, at least for a long time anyways, leave them out of conversations I have with others who ask me about Korea.
Getting back to the bad ajusshi taxi driver . . . I said nothing in response to his rude and hostile comment. I had PLENTY OF THINGS in my mind that I wanted to say, but I kept quiet.
When we finally turned off the main street and began driving down the tiny side streets towards Julianne’s apartment we had one last dose of rudeness from him. When I asked him to take one last turn up the side street to the apartment he stopped the car, sighed, glared at me viciously, and then made the turn.
Normally, I’d have been really angry about the whole experience due to the cultural exhaustion I’ve been fighting for the last six months or so . . . but I actually just shrugged it off. He’s the one who was damaging his mind and body with anger. He’s the one who was damaging the reputation and image of Korea with foreigners who are leaving and will talk to others outside Korea about the culture and people.
You know what? It’s no skin off my back. We got our stuff safely to Julianne’s place, and that’s what counted.
92 hours and 32 minutes to China–and goodbye Korea!
J
11 comments
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August 26, 2010 at 4:29 pm
Stafford
Glad you got the post office sorted. At least your just next door. Takes about 3 months to ship that way to new Zealand!
August 27, 2010 at 5:04 am
kimchiicecream
Stafford,
Hell yeah…I was a bit freaked out but finally figured it out. 3 months? Yikes!
By the by, I’m hoping to take a short trip out to Ganghwa Island this Sunday (the place where it all began in Korea for me) as a kind of closure. I’m gonna take my telephoto lens and try and get some shots of the cranes (bird) that are always in the rice fields…I’ll post any good shots I get Sunday night. Wish me luck.
J
August 26, 2010 at 11:50 pm
Jimmy
Hey Jason,
Rachel and I wish you two the best of luck.
Be sure to give us the link to your China blog soon.
Jimmy
August 27, 2010 at 5:02 am
kimchiicecream
Thanks Jimmy and Rachel,
I’ll try and post the link to my new blog tonight–but between being tired and having more stuff to do still to get ready, and wanting to see the new Aliens movie, lol, we’ll see if I get to it. It’ll happen this weekend for sure!
Take care,
J
August 27, 2010 at 12:35 am
schlotzy
Best of luck to you and Julianne in China. I hope you’re able to do some regular blogging even with all of the internet restrictions 🙂
schlotzy from Blog-gogi
August 27, 2010 at 5:01 am
kimchiicecream
Thanks Blog-gogi,
From what I can see you can blog via wordpress fairly easily in China….but yeah, the connections are sketchy.
Keep up your own awesome blogging too!
J
August 27, 2010 at 6:57 am
Daantaat
Good luck to you and Julianne in China. I hope you will find it exciting and eye-opening. I’ve never been to the Mainland, but I absolutely love Hong Kong. I’m looking forward to keeping up with your adventures there.
I also just wanted to say how much I enjoy looking at all your photos. I don’t know much about photography, but I’m thinking about buying a good quality camera to get started and I wonder if you might have any recommendations for someone who is just getting into photography. Any advice you can give me about shopping for a camera will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, and have a great time in China. ^.^
August 27, 2010 at 11:04 am
Ben G
I think you’re going to find the same amount of things, if not more, to complain about in China despite what you’ve heard from friends. Yes, China is very different than Korea. But, my opinion is that if you are frustrated and “culturally exhausted” in Korea, you will eventually find many things to complain about in China. The ability to adapt has more to do with individual personality. Many of your posts seem to exude simmering frustration and slight ignorance (i.e your taxi story). Even though you’ve been in Korea for 5 years, it just seems like you never truly adapted to life in here. My teacher friend (E) remembers you from Ganghwa and she said that you came to her office and didn’t do much other than complain to her. Anybody can live in a country for 5 years, but to adapt is a completely different animal of course. In comparison, I have a German friend that has also been in Korea for 5 years. When he arrived, he could not speak a lick of Korean. Today, he is completely fluent in Korean and works at an architecture firm in Seoul. He embraced and understands the culture (the good and the bad) and I never hear him talk about things such as “cultural exhaustion”. Over the past 5 years, he truly adapted to life here. On the other hand, it seems that never really happened for you. Hence, the “cultural exhaustion”. There is nothing wrong with that of course because not everybody is meant to live here (or wherever). But, it is surprising to me that you endured it for so long. But good luck in China.
August 27, 2010 at 1:33 pm
kimchiicecream
I think I’m going to find a lot of the same things too….I’ve been reading a lot about China and the culture and realize that there will be many similarities, and in some/many cases it will be more extreme or whatever you want to call it.
I think there is a difference between ‘adapting’ to a culture and being ‘assimilated.’ “Understanding Korean culture” all too often means becoming complicit in bad teaching practices and turning a blind eye to being screwed by co-teachers and supervisors over issues like money, scheduling, and other things that I don’t believe anyone should submit to.
I think too many long term expat teachers who ‘adapt’ to Korean culture collude with the unprofessional practices and turn a blind eye either willingly or through ignorance to the things going on around them. It’s funny how in spite of me ‘complaining about everything’ I was able to get the ear of the provincial education office supervisor and make a fair number of changes in things like the orientation for new foreign teachers, the orientation booklet, and other things. The supervisors I talked to also didn’t like my critical discourse–but they recognized it for having legitimate content and good ideas.
It’s easy to dismiss what I have to say, and the angst underlying it, as due to not adjusting to the culture . . . but I’d like to think it has more to not being able to compromise myself, my teaching principles, and my integrity–how many people can say that they’ve done that in Korea while living and teaching here? Not many, I think. They buy into the bullshit rhetoric of ‘adaptation’ and ‘adjustment’ and “Please understand _____ (whatever).”
Expat Korean apologists who have been swilling the ‘kimchi coolaid’ often throw about the ‘you don’t understand Korean culture’ rhetoric any time someone is critical or complains about Korean culture. But I think many expats, and Koreans, would like to think that things like fraud, harassment, and other unprofessional and unethical behaviors are not a part of Korean culture but rather a part of negative behavior patterns that don’t need to be ‘understood’ within the framework of cultural adaptation and understanding. Rather, they should be seen for what they are: wrong.
It’s funny how you know who that I would visit has reduced our conversations to me generally complaining. I recall her having her own complaints and being happy to find a sympathetic listener.
If you put my Ganghwa Island experience in context I think most expats would understand why I was so unhappy.
– I was put in an apartment that was a 3 season structure and not insulated for winter habitation
– my principal was pocketing the apartment money and I never saw a cent because he conned me into believing I had to stay in the crappy apartment attached to the school property
– I was pushed to teach extra classes and ended up doing 12 classes on top of my 22 regular contract–34 classes a week is unhealthy and will burn out anyone who tries to do that many….especially a newbie teacher
– I worked at 3 different schools for my regular contract, and had to travel on top of my work day, and then do the after school program classes
– none of my co-teachers had ever worked with a native teacher, and working out how to co-teach with no training was very difficult
– the nearest native speaker was 30 minutes away by bus
– I was posted to a 2 street hamlet
and the list goes on . . .
Is it at all surprising that I was extremely unhappy on that island? Even my recruiter was surprised that they put me in the hamlet. He thought they’d find me an apartment in the small city on the island.
Anyways, the reason I think things will be better for me in China is because I’m returning to teaching university. It’s the one position that I’ve felt like a ‘real teacher’ during my time in Korea, and I enjoy teaching at that level. One of the major reasons for this is that I don’t have to co-teach, and don’t have to deal with the school politics that often have nothing to do with education….
If ‘adapting to Korea’ means saying yes all the time to unprofessional and anti-education requests from my ‘seniors,’ and just going with the flow—and I think it all too often does–then I’ll take my cultural exhaustion and be happy that I never allowed myself to let go of my core principles.
One of my close friends once told me that I am an ‘agent of change’ and that no matter where I go or what I do that my way of seeing things, and how I act based on that way of seeing, will always put me in the center of controversy and discord due to a desire to change things for the better in spite of others refusing to see what is going on right in front of them…
Every school I’ve worked at in Korea has fought to get me to stay for another contract, and in some instances actually tried blackmailing by messing with my vacation and a request denied for a transfer. Every school I’ve taught at has adopted and implemented many of the changes and ideas I proposed, and that came from criticisms of how things were being done. I’ve worked my way up from teaching middle school to high school to being a teacher trainer and university visiting professor during the course of my time in Korea–I have no regrets, and am proud of what I’ve done.
But I never thought I was ‘meant to live here’–nor, good god, would I want to. Five years and change is more than enough for me.
The last thing I’ll say is that I find it really ironic that one thing I remember about my conversations with E was her desire to be with her boyfriend in England (?)–NOT in Korea. But I recall conversations about her not being able to find work there because her teaching qualifications wouldn’t be recognized and she’d have to do something else, and that she’d miss her family too much. But the desire to get out of Korea was there . . .
Now how funny (tragic) is that?
J
August 31, 2010 at 4:54 am
Christopher B
Jason,
I think you’ll do alright in China as long as you stop putting up with nonsense for the sake of harmonious working relationships as you’ve been doing, as well as just putting up with nonsense from strangers, which has probably contributed more to your ‘cultural exhaustion’.
A few comparisons and examples
you put up with a cold apartment in the hamlet-I was brought in to an unfurnished apartment and expected to sleep on a floor. “I’m sleeping at your apartment until it’s ready” -they paid for the love motel
-I was at a full load of classes going to 3 schools, and the once a week ‘adjusshi scumbag’ told me I’d be teaching the grad 3 students, whereas I promptly told him politely that I’d be paid the full overtime rate and then that was the end of teaching the 3rd grade students.
-said principal told me ‘you must eat that’. I replied ‘whenever anyone pressures me to eat anything, I must not eat anything’ and that was the last time that ever happened, and I would not eat at the school cafeteria except for when he was not there.
-one of the more manipulative dicks was nice enough at the middle school but when the 3 schools got together he made light of my not using my big finger whilst using chopsticks. Instead of putting up with it, I asked ‘want to see the perfect use of chopsticks?’ when buddy said yes, I put the sticks down and said ‘here you go, meal’s over.’
It’s too bad you didn’t rebuke that scumbag taxi driver-he’ll probably feel free to be a turd to the next foreigner-hopefully it will be me. Good on you for shooting down the coteacher over taking pics of the food. I encourage you to shoot down more nonsense when it comes your way in China.
On the plus side, you’ve helped who knows how many with your blog and the Incheon book in the orientation-you are making a macro change.
All the best to you in China man, and don’t take the verbal jabs, give em right back!
February 25, 2011 at 3:25 am
Christopher B
Reading this again is quite funny-people complaing that Jason is too hard on Koreans? Hell, he just about wrote a ” KICK ME” sign in Korean, put it on his back and was surprised people kicked him!
Glad things are working out for you in China, Jason!